Full and Fluffy Pettiskirt

I used to love to dance around in skirts as a young girl.

And I always wanted a pettiskirt.

My childhood friend had one, and we would wear it, then trade, then dance, then trade, etc.

What a pain…….but I loved that thing.

And wished it was mine.

So making my little girl her own, was kind of like fulfilling that childhood dream of having a full and fluffy pettiskirt, all my own.  Ha……forgive me!

What could be better?  A full pettiskirt to dance in, twirl in, pretend in……

All of the ruffles, all of the layers………they will bounce right along with your free-spirited little girl.

With all those soft layers, girls of all ages are bound to feel happy and free….

Made my heart so happy to watch this little lady enjoying the fullness and fluff, every bit as much as I did so many years ago.  (Why didn’t I know now to sew when I was a teeny little girl?)

Would you like to make one too?

I found a video on Martha Stewart here a while ago, where a guest came on and showed how to make her pettiskirts.

I wish she had more time to share….but such are TV segments.  Short and sweet.

So I watched the video several times, adjusted the measurements given (just a bit), and came up with a step-by-step tutorial…..just to help explain the process a bit more.

And before we begin, make sure you purchase a non-fray chiffon….you don’t want to have to finish off every edge.  WAY too much work.  I found my chiffon here.  And actually purchased rolls of it, in the exact width that I needed, here.  There are many colors to choose from and the prices are great!  (If you don’t buy it on rolls, get ready to make lots of 2 inch and 5 inch wide strips that have to be sewn together to make longer strips.  But it can be done…..don’t worry!)

If you’re making a size similar to mine (about a 3T/4T….maybe even big enough for a 5T) I followed the links above and purchased one 2 inch roll (light pink) that was 60 yards long and one 5 inch roll (bright pink) that was 30 yards long.

Also, you will need to purchase a 1/4 yard of satin, some 7/8 wide elastic, and some ribbon.

Now, to get a visual of how the skirt is made……..it is a 3 tiered skirt, with a ruffle around the bottom.  The 1st tier is satin, the 2nd and 3rd tiers are 5 inch wide chiffon, and then you use the 2 inch wide chiffon as a ruffle along the bottom.  And then you actually make the chiffon section of the skirt twice, and put them together and make a 2 layered, 3 tiered skirt.  Make sense?

So first, I measured and cut enough strips of chiffon to make the two separate skirts.

The hot pink layers are 5 inches wide (though they look a little scrunched) and the pink layers are 2 inches wide.

The top chiffon tier is 180 inches (5 yards) long, the 2nd chiffon tier is 360 inches (10 yards), and the bottom ruffle is 1080 inches (30 yards).  Then do that twice……so you can make the 2 separate skirts.

Then, I learned a little trick on my Bernina to help the process (because I don’t have a ruffler foot but may invest in one after making this pettiskirt).  I adjusted the stitch length to the longest it would go…….

And then adjusted the tension wheel so that one thread was being pulled tighter than the other…….creating a ruffle in the fabric.  And then I tried it on my old machine……and it worked great too.  (So increase your stitch length like you normally would to create a ruffle, but then play around with your tension on some scrap fabric and watch as it ruffles your fabric.  Don’t backstitch at either end, and then you can still adjust the ruffle by increasing or decreasing the ruffle.)  Great, right?  It saved some time.

After you have practiced this technique on some scraps, stitch down the center of your 2 inch wide fabric, creating a nice ruffle.  See all of those ruffles?  That’s how ruffly the machine made the strip without me even trying.

 But if you don’t like that technique, you can always sew a basting stitch and then do all of the ruffling on your own. (Need help? Visit this post here.)  Or you can just gather with your fingers and slide it under the needle as you sew. 

 But this way, you can’t adjust the length of the ruffle when you’re done.Whatever you’re most comfortable with.  But get ready, you have 2 really long strips to ruffle.

Now, lay your ruffle down next to one of your 360 inch long layers. (The second 5 inch chiffon layer.)  You want the ruffle to be the same length as this layer……so pull on the end thread of your ruffle to adjust or release the ruffle a bit.

Then sew the 2 short ends of your 5 inch wide layer together, making a large circle.  Also, be sure that the fabric is not twisted at all.  Then attach the ruffle to right side of the bottom edge of this layer, attaching the ruffle about 1/4 inch up from the bottom.  And sew right down the center of the ruffle.

And when you get back to the beginning, just overlap the ruffle just a bit and backstitch several times.

The whole layer, with the ruffle along the bottom.

Next, you’re going to sew a basting stitch around the top of this bottom layer, a 1/4 inch from the edge…..so that you can gather it before attaching it to the next layer up.  I split this in half and sewed a basting stitch only along half of the top, stopped, left long thread ends…….and then made another basting stitch around the other half of the top.  This way, I could gather half of the top edge at a time.  And I used the same technique that I shared above, and adjusted the tension.  Then I didn’t have to gather as much…

Then grab the 180 inch long layer of chiffon and sew the ends together the same way as you did the longer layer……….and lay the two layers down next to each other.

Place the two layers together, with right sides together.  And adjust the gathering if you need to so that there is an even ruffle all the way around.  Pin the layers together.

All pinned along one side, ready to pin the other half.

 Then sew the two layers together, right along that original basting stitch, about 1/4 inch seam allowance.  (Maybe a 1/3 inch seam allowance to hide some of the basting stitch.)

Do the same thing with the other layers you have cut, attaching the ruffles and creating gathers.  So now you have 2 identical pieces……….each with 2 tiers and the bottom ruffles.  Whew, lots of gathering.

Next, you’re going to cut a piece of satin that is 8 inches wide by 40 inches long.

On the wrong side of the fabric, iron on a piece of fusible interfacing that is 1/2 x 40 inches to each long edge of the satin.

Then sew the piece of satin together into a tube with right sides together.  Use a 1/2 inch seam allowance to sew those 2 ends together.  Then sew another seam, just to reinforce…..or zig-zag.  Whatever you’d like.

But be sure to leave an opening along the edge that is 1 inch wide.  This satin is 8 inches wide and will be folded in half to make the waist band.  So I measured in 4 inches, placed a pin, measured over an inch to the left, placed another pin, then made my seam……..but left the space between the two pins open.  Then made the next seam the same way, leaving the 1 inch space open.

The I folded the fabric down on itself in half, making a waistband, and making sure that the 1 inch opening was on the outside.  So this is a tube below, with a fold at the top and the raw edges at the bottom.

Then I ironed that top fold in place.

 Then I measured down an inch from the top, all the way around the tube and put pins in as my markers.  (You could use chalk too.)

Then I followed the pins as I made a seam all the way around the tube….creating a casing for the elastic.

Then I cut a piece of elastic that was 6 inches shorter than I needed.  My little girls waist is about 20 inches, so I cut a piece of elastic that was 14 inches and 2 piece of ribbon that were 18 inches each.  Then I heat sealed the ends of the ribbon (with a lighter) and then sewed one end of each piece of ribbon to each end of the elastic.  Now the waistband is adjustable with a ribbon, yet allows for a snug fit from the elastic.

Then attach a safety pin to one end and slide the ribbon through the casing of the satin piece.

Pull all the way through, gather in the fabric, tie in a bow…….see how it works?

 ***And see how there is an outside layer and an inside layer to the waistband?

Now, untie the ribbon and just pin the ends to the skirt so that they’re not in the way during the next step.  Or just don’t even put the ribbon in until later.

Now, grab one of your ruffled layers and make a basting stitch along the top (1/4 inch seam allowance), just like you did above.  And make two separate basting stitches, halfway around each, like I explained above………it helps while you’re pinning.

Now pin this layer to the bottom front edge of the satin waistband……with right sides together.  But only pin to the outer layer of the waistband.  Make sure the inner layer of the waistband is out of the way.  Adjust the gathering where necessary and make sure that the gathers are evenly distributed around the satin layer.

Then sew into place, using a 1/4 – 1/3 inch seam allowance.  When you flip down the ruffled layer…….you will now start to see your skirt.

Now, gather the top of your other skirt layer the same way as the first one.  Turn the skirt and waist band inside out so that the other layer of the waistband is on the outside. 

Now pin the wrong side of the chiffon layer to the right side of the satin layer……and pin in place.

Pin all the way around.

And sew into place, just like above.

Now, sew a top-stitch along the bottom edge of the satin, folding the raw edges (that are underneath) upwards, towards the top of the skirt, as you sew.  You will be sewing through the top layer of satin and then the little raw edge underneath as well.  So two layers of satin and some chiffon too.  Do this to both edges of the satin.

See the top-stitch along each edge of satin that is next to the chiffon?  (The seam in the middle is just the casing for the elastic.)

Are you still with me?  

That’s it.  

You’re done.  

No more gathers or ruffling.  Whew.

Great work!

Now, really, wasn’t that all worth it?

Just look at all of that pettiskirt goodness…..

………secured in place by a sweet little ribbon on the hip.

  http://www.makeit-loveit.com/2010/07/full-and-fluffy-pettiskirt.html

5 Tips For Increasing Your Photography Facebook Fan Page Reach

Do you want more potential and current customers to “like” your Facebook Page? If you aren’t using Facebook to market your business, you are missing out on a great source of free marketing.  Facebook is not only free, but it can put you in front of hundreds, even thousands, of people regularly to promote your business.  You may not be surprised, but social media is the number one online activity and Facebook fans are very regular users.  In fact, many of you have noticed that your Facebook page gets 3 times the traffic of your site, and this trend is continuing to grow daily.
If you haven’t already, we recommend that you have your own business page, and not use just your personal page for promoting your business.  Once you have your business page, invite all of your friends to “like” your business page.  Then be sure to post images and engage with your friends and fans.
Here are 5 tips that we encourage you to use to build that fan base:
1 – Have a system in place that helps you to post consistently.  Consistency in posting will make or break your business page, and if your non existent for a while, so will your fans be.   Take the time to create a schedule for the month of when you are going to post what.   Don’t do images every single day or your fans will start to tune you out.  Post the link to your blog post one day, then a few days later actually post those same images into your post.  It’s great to engage in updating your status or personal commentary in between posting images.   Check out online social media organizers.
2 – Tag your clients in every picture that you post, and also tag your own business page on the same photos.  By tagging them, it will put your picture into their feed and in front of their friends and family.  And by tagging your business, if someone clicks on the image it takes them to your site.  This can bring in new people that are your clients’ friends and fans; as they browse their images they will eventually make it over to your page.

3 – Create a landing page for your new visitors that are not yet fans.  Be sure it has a call to action to “like” your page.  Once they have become a fan, that welcome page can change to another page that gives great information as well as links to your website.  For examples of landing pages, see the MCP Actions Page, Amy Fraughton’s Photography Page and Melissa Jill Photography.   To create your own landing page, watch this great tutorial.
4 – Provide good content.  What are your fans on your page for?  Amazing photography!  They are not there for good recipes and parenting tips, they are there to be amazed with your photography.  Adding personal stories and sharing about yourself is always good, but be sure that you include some great photography as well.  Also, be sure to add your best pictures when posting on Facebook, and have your very favorite picture be the album cover, so that is what they see.  It doesn’t make sense to use your 2^nd or 3^rd best images; your work really needs to shine!

5 – Take advantage of shooting large groups of people. Then be sure those large groups of people know where to find the images that you shot on your Facebook page.  Place an album on your Facebook business page of all of the images from this group and in the comments section, instruct them that they may “tag” themselves in the image by first “liking” your page.  Be sure that your watermark is on every one of these images and they are tagged back to you.  This is a great way to get a lot of people liking your page in a short period of time.  Do you shoot weddings?  Be sure to add the pictures from the reception and invite guests to tag themselves.  Do you have a large event coming up?  Be sure the attendees know that they can find the images online.  Don’t have an event?  Find one.  It will only increase your exposure both in person and on Facebook.

Be careful not to run too many contests where you are promoting other photographers and vendors to join your page as fans.  That can give you a false sense of security that you have 600 fans and that you’ll be getting all kinds of phone calls for work, when in actuality the number of fans that are truly your target market may be much smaller.

Remember, be patient, slow and steady wins the race, and that is true for growing your Facebook fans as well.  http://www.mcpactions.com/blog/2011/05/16/5-tips-for-increasing-your-photography-facebook-fan-page-reach/

The Newborn Session – How to work with a newborn – tips, tricks and ideas to make your session a success

First of all I want to say Thank You to Jodi for inviting me to be a guest speaker on her blog. When she asked me if I would like to talk about Newborn Photography, my answer was “of course!” Newborns have long been my favorite subject and while I find them the most challenging and longest sessions I have they are so rewarding and amazing to work with. There is nothing more beautiful than a new life and capturing those first few weeks is such an amazing gift to parents.

If you have questions after reading this post, please add them to the comment section here on the MCP Blog.  I will come check and respond to questions either in the comment section or in another post, depending how many there are.

To start with I would like to talk about the Newborn Session itself and how to make it successful as a photographer. My first bit of advice is to approach newborn photography as a journey. It will take you several sessions to really start perfecting your skill set and style. While this can be frustrating as a photographer just be patient with yourself. I still after almost 5 years of photographing newborns feel like I am learning new skills with every session. A good way to practice is to have a casting call. Offer clients a free session and maybe a wall portrait. This will get you the practice you need and also give the parents something in return. You can structure these in many different ways. For example, if you would like more multiples or you want to practice specific poses include that in the description of the casting call. Once you have your sessions set up here are some general guidelines that will help make them more successful.

1. Get them young.
Try and encourage your clients to book their session as soon after birth as possible. I like to shoot newborns anywhere from 6-10 days. I like them sleepy and small but I would prefer them at least 6 days so that mother’s milk is in if they are breastfeeding. It also gives mom and dad a bit of time at home with their new little one. I have photographed newborns up to the age of 6 weeks and sometimes it works out. So while I can usually get them to sleep it is harder to keep them asleep as you pose them. Around 2 ½ to 3 weeks is when baby acne sets in too so it is good to try and get them before that happens. That being said I will take a newborn at any age. If the parents are game for trying so I am as long as they understand I cannot promise a lot of sleeping shots. Here is an example of some of my older babies.

6 weeks old- she really did quite well. She took a bit to get to sleep but once she was she was pretty easy to position.

4 weeks old- while he slept fine if we moved him he would wake right up. So mom and I really had to work for every shot we got.

2. Keep them warm.
This is crucial if you want a good sleepy baby. I always use a space heater, which doubles as a noise maker and a heating pad if the room is particularly drafty. I always put the heating pad on low and under several layers of blankets. Then once the baby is on the heating pad I turn it off so that baby doesn’t get too warm. A good rule of thumb is if you are hot then the baby is probably happy.

3. Take control.
This was a hard lesson to learn. But I always handle the baby myself. I purposely wash my hands in front of the parents so that they know I am clean and then I take the baby from them. I start with the beanbag so that I can undress and swaddle them if I need to. If baby is asleep when I get there then carefully undress them on the bean bag and get them nice and comfortable. I find on their bellies or on their side is a good place to start. Let them settle and then position them. Don’t move too fast. Sometimes new parents are nervous holding babies and this can lead to them being startled and waking them up. As you develop your skills you will develop methods to move baby around without startling or waking them. I often tell parents to have a seat and relax. Let me do the work. They are usually grateful for the break.

4. Have a plan.
I always go into a newborn session with a general plan of what I want to do. It doesn’t always work out but if the baby is sleepy it makes the session go so much smoother and faster. So have a list of poses to do. I start with the beanbag poses and have several I like to do there, and then add a few other props (baskets, bowls, ect) and I usually end with shots with mom, dad and sibling. If I know my goal ahead of time it really makes my session go smoothly and ensures I get the variety I want. I always let the baby run the show though. I go by their lead, if they are not tolerating a pose, I move on and try it later or skip it all together. I want them to be comfy and happy the whole time.

5. Be prepared for everything and anything.
I always make sure I have my camera gear and blankets prepared to go the night before. My list of equipment and props are as follows.

Canon 5D Mark II- with the 50 mm 1.2 L
Canon 5D – for backup and I keep my macro lens on this camera
135mm 2.0L in case I get to go outside. This is my favorite lens and what I use 90% of the time outside.
35mm 1.4L – this is a new lens for me but will make overhead shots easier and possibly group shots in tight spaces.
Plenty of compact flash cards. I usually shoot 300-350 shots at a typical newborn session.
Canon Flash – just in case, but I never use it.
Beanbag – I got mine from www.beanbags.com. It is a small black vinyl one. Your beanbag needs to be somewhat firm so that they baby doesn’t get too deep into it but not too firm so that you can’t manipulate it.
Many blankets- I use them for layering as well as in baskets and on the beanbag. I bring one black blanket and many cream ones (as opposed to white). I prefer the light backgrounds to the black but black is nice for variety.
Hats- some cute newborn hats
Swaddling blankets
A few bowls and baskets- you can also use the client’s personal items if you are on location. Or ask them to bring anything that they might want to incorporate into the session.
Space Heater and heating pad

Accidents almost always happen. Have back up blankets, extra towels, burp cloths and wipes close by. I also bring extra clothes in case I am holding baby when they decided to go to the bathroom. It has happened to me more than once. I always assure the parents that it doesn’t matter what they do on my things. That everything is washable. This takes the worry out of their mind. And I don’t panic when accidents happen… it is just part of the session.

6. Be prepared for long sessions.
My newborn sessions often last 3 hours. With breaks for snacks, soothing to sleep and cleaning up messes it takes a while. I try to get them to sleep with pacifiers, swaddling and rocking before resorting to nursing because the more they nurse the more they poop and pee. Remember to dress nicely but comfortably. Jeans and a white T-shirt are my uniform most days. The white T-shirt allows you to be your own reflector in some cases and ensure you don’t throw odd color casts into your images.

7. Enjoy those babies.
Only photograph newborns if you truly love them. Nothing makes a parent more comfortable than seeing that their photographer truly enjoys working with babies. Showing patience and compassion for their new little life will make them trust you and refer you to all their pregnant buddies.

Tune in next time and we will talk about Styles for Newborn Photography   http://www.mcpactions.com/blog/2009/02/06/the-newborn-session-how-to-work-with-a-newborn-tips-tricks-and-ideas-to-make-your-session-a-success/